For four hundred years, this dusty island was the capital of Burma. This was during the ‘dark ages’ of Burmese history, a period that very little is known about. Today, only a handful of structures remain, and farms and village life has replaced what must once have been a majestic city. To get there, hail [...]
A strange thing happens around day three of touring amazing places: Ambivalence. It’s a terrible thing to admit, but it’s true. Too much of a good thing is hard for a mind to digest. What were cries to joy and amazement on day one have turned, by day three, to little head nods or hints [...]
A few weeks ago, while I was waiting in line at the Kathmandu Airport, I happened to strike up a conversation with an American part-time Buddhist monk. While the security people did their best to delay all the flights, we had time to exchange a few pleasantries and travel anecdotes. Upon hearing that we were [...]
This is me in my own personal heaven. If you’ve been following this blog, you’ll know that I’m a sucker for picking up souvenirs (as shown here and here and here). They’re usually of the small furniture, machete, or unusable carpet variety – bulky and awkward but items I really can’t do without. Well, yesterday [...]
Just when you think you’re going to scream from claustrophobia and butt pain, along comes a diversion that saves the day. Martin and I had been sitting in our wood-backed bench seats en route to Mandalay for six or so hours. Because we were so late getting on the train, our bench-mate had taken the [...]
“Martin! Get your backpack on, I think we have to make a run for it.” We’d arrived at the train station ten minutes earlier. After a leisurely stroll to find a good place to put our bags down we’d played our usual game of rock-paper-scissors to see who bought the tickets. I’d lost and had [...]
When resources are scant, smart people step up and figure things out. Like here: this Katha shop sells metal ware made out of recycled tins. These funnels and oil dispensers have been hand made from cans of energy drinks and creamed corn. I wish I had the space to buy a ton of it, but [...]
We reached Katha yesterday by boat from Bhamo. Our stop here was motivated by transportation – we had to spend a night here to get to a neighboring town, where we’ll catch the train to Mandalay. We’re on a fast track right now (time is tick tick ticking away), so we’re only allowed one night [...]
You know that saying, “Everyone’s doing it.” It’s my new favorite souvenir buying tactic. Today’s Martin-convincing-session took place outside a rattan store. The desired item: a basket like all the other Burmese ladies are using. “You know, Martin, I think I really need this basket. I’ll pack my day-pack away and use this. I think [...]
A lazy river cruise down the Irrawaddy is considered one of the highlights of any adventure in northern Burma. The problem is that it’s the dry season, and the water is very low. Nevertheless, we boarded the ‘Fast Boat’ from Bhamo to Katha, the northernmost point for meaningful travel at this time. We only had [...]
We only have an afternoon and a night to spend here in Bhamo, in transit between Myitkyina and Katha. After a quick walk around town, we can only conclude that it is a shame that we don’t have more time – it does seem like a nice place to while away a couple of days. [...]
Without a government-issued permit, we’re not allowed any further north than Myitkyina. So despite loving what we were see in northern Myanmar, we’re now forced to make our way south. Wishing we had more time here (the visa is a measly 28-dayer), but unable to avoid the impending departure date, we now have to move [...]
Due to unforeseen circumstances (namely Martin picking up a fun little food bug) we haven’t done anything in Myitkyina since arriving three days ago. He’s better now, so we were determined to find something to do with our last day here. We had heard of a waterfall within a day-trip distance from town, but were [...]
Machetes are a must have, right? Before we leave Myitkyina tomorrow I wanted to pick up a few I saw for sale in the market. These things are the real deal. They weigh a ton, are awkward to carry and will come of little use when we get home. In short, they’re perfect for us. [...]
Renting a semi-automatic motorbike and two helmets for a day: 10 dollars. A tank of low-octane gas: 3 dollars. Realizing an hour later that the helmet that came with the deal is actually a replica of a Nazi helmet: Bizarre. I seriously have no idea why, but a lot of people up here are riding [...]
You know the saying, “to fly by the seat of your pants?” Well, that's been our philosophy for most of our adult lives – before and after meeting, falling in love and marrying. We're now taking that idea on an extended round-the-world trip. Follow us as we share the good, the bad and the downright nasty of life on the road.
